SAAB B202 Cylinder Head for sale.. open for bids

SAAB B202 16v Cylinder head. ”Long Engine” 1988 . 2,0 litre Turbo up to 1993.
Valve sizes Inlet 32mm Exhaust 29mm.
Gasflowed (ported) and combustion chambers polished suitable for performance road or competition use. This cylinder head has recieved a 15 000kr porting job for a customer that no longer requires it.
It will run perfectly on a road or performance engine, expect a 10% increase in power and torque, improved fuel economy and reduced spool-up time for the Turbo.
The pictures show the head after it was removed and cleaned up, before sale it will have all valve seats freshened up with mira 3 angled tooling and the head face will be skimmed to clean it up, volumed, equalised and assembled. Valves, springs, retainers and lifters are included, but no camshafts.
Price Guide 600 euro (approx 6 000 swedish kronor). Or highest bid.

Email: mike@racing-green.com

Telephone International: +46 520 420069 (Will connect to mobile phone after 8 signals)

Telephone within Sweden: 0520 420069 (Will connect to mobile phone after 8 signals)

Telephone Mobile: +46 731 807637

All items sold as is, no warranty, no returns, no refunds. I have described this item as best as I can and to the best of my knowledge. It is the buyer’s responsibility to confirm compatibility of parts with your particular application. I will gladly answer any question you have as best as possible. If you have any questions please ask before bidding. Payment should be made within 5 days of the end of the auction. I reserve the right to withdraw the item from the auction without prior warning.
Guideline shipping costs:
Within Sweden 25 euro
Within Europe 50 euro
USA and Rest of World 100 euro
But Please contact me via email for exact shipping costs to your location.

200sx discs

A- 22mm

B= 50mm

C=27,5mm

February update

We could go on like this for days.... and we have...

Found an old rear wong from a race car laying around, we might make new end plates and borrow this wing, if it works good then we will buy a new one for the race car...

We will simply make new slightly longer end plates for the wing and then bolt it straight through the rear tailgate sides.

Finally got the scuttle welded back together and weather sealed, from where the roll cage tubes pass through and meet the front shock towers. Had to make a new drain tube for the scuttle, otherwise rain water would collect and run into the car onto the drivers feet. Finished this job of with some paint. We are only painting the parts we have worked on, the rest of the engine bay will remain natural... until we remove the engine for tuning.... later..

Initially pleased to see the dash going in, we had to remove the vinyl covering, cut the dash in half to get it inbetween the toyota bars, and then glue the dash back together and refit the vinyl in situ.
Just a small adjustment required here, actually took around 15 -20 hours to get the dash back in... time consuming work.
Initial impressions were that the door cards and roll cage mated perfectly... but they didn't, and we had to use a hot air gun to warm the panels and form them around the roll cage tubes.

Pictures below show close ups of the forming work... a touch of paint and they will look like they grew there..

The interior looks dirty and dusty, but with a quick wipe over it looks like new...

One week later... and most all of the dashboard is back in, switches connected.

Glovebox lid is back in place, we had to reloacate the fuse box as it's original position was now filled with roll cage tubes, so we cut the back out of the glovebox and mounted the fuse box on the heater cowling.

It took another 10 hours to get the instrument cowl to actually fit onto the dashboard without the gaps.... but it finally gave in and I won... hot air gun, cutting disc, tywraps and silicone sealer were on my team!

The clock was fitted for about an hour, and then got ditched in favour of a boost gauge, so the clock fascia is currently being doctored into submission, whilst the clock is in the bin...

Below is the modification to allow fitting of the 200sx gearbox. Previous owner had just cut a hole in the tunnel and taped the boot over the hole... so we made a panel and welded it into place.

Note the screw in the end of the handbrake lever, to disable the locking part of the handbrake..

Later I will make a new dual cylinder handbrake assembly, with one cylinder for the front and one for the rear brakes, running in-line. Push the lever foward will lock the front brakes, and pull back will lock the rears... which will be useful for showing off and playing at drift shows.